光華雜誌 2011-12-15 第10012期
2011-12-15 第10012期
美食也要國際化
文．張瓊方 圖．林格立
台灣美食，美則美矣，卻「養在深閨人未識」，需要妝點打
扮及媒人引介，始能站上舞台吸引國際目光。
There is a Chinese poem about a fabulously beautiful girl kept hidden away in the family manor. If only she could be dressed up a bit and get herself a good matchmaker, she would become renowned far and wide. Fine food from Taiwan, though certainly worthy of the highest accolades, is in a similar situation.
為此，新聞局在2011年11月底推出一個「台灣美食文化網」，以多語言（中英日法西）介紹並推廣台灣的飲食文化；經濟部商業司計畫建立統一的菜餚英譯名，做為觀光客的點菜參考。台灣美食國際化，已跨出第一步。
To change this, in late November of 2011 the Government Information Office will launch a website called Food Culture in Taiwan. In a multilingual format (Chinese, English, Japanese, French, and Spanish) it will introduce and promote local culinary cultures. In addition, the Department of Commerce of the Ministry of Economic Affairs is working on a unified list of English translations for Chinese dishes, giving visitors a handy and universal guide for ordering in any restaurant. Taiwan cuisine is taking its first steps toward internationalization.
《禮記‧禮運》：「飲食男女，人之大欲存焉。」愛爾蘭劇作家蕭伯納則說：「沒有一種愛比對美食的愛好更真誠。」
The “Li Yun” chapter of The Book of Rites, in a paragraph commenting on the most important of human motivations, says something to the effect that what men take the most delight in—ranking right up there with sexual pleasure—is good food and drink. And the Irish playwright George Bernard Shaw declared: “There is no love sincerer than the love of food.”
對美食的愛好不僅沒有國界，近年更成為文化輸出與國際推廣的主流。
Gourmandise knows no boundaries. Indeed, in recent years cooking styles have become a central element in the export of culture and the creation of a higher international profile.
有鑑於泰、韓、日、馬等鄰國，紛紛設立推動機構，強力向外推介食材與連鎖餐廳，2010年，行政院擬定「台灣美食國際化行動計畫」，編列4年11億元經費，欲將台灣美食推上國際舞台。
Learning from the example of countries like Thailand, Korea, Japan, and Malaysia, which have all formed agencies to promote their national cooking styles, food products, and restaurants, in 2010 the ROC Executive Yuan approved a special “action plan” to internationalize Taiwan cuisine. The plan comes with a four-year budget of NT$1.1 billion, and aims to put Taiwan on the international culinary map.
經濟部商業司成立「美食國際化推動小組」，從「在地國際化」與「國際當地化」兩方面著手推動；新聞局與美國紐約「吳博得製作公司」合作攝製台灣專題電視節目，並製作《品味台灣》紀錄片行銷宣傳。
交通部觀光局2009年的統計顯示，台灣美食已是吸引觀光客來台的最大賣點。
The Department of Commerce of the Ministry of Economic Affairs (MOEA) has established a task force to promote the globalization of fine foods from Taiwan, adopting a two-track strategy of “local internationalization” and “international localization.” And the Government Information Office, working with New York-based Burt Wolf Productions, has made a documentary on gourmet dining here.
Surveys done in 2009 by the ROC Tourism Bureau show that in that year food was already the top selling point for tourists to Taiwan.
美食之都行不行？
A “city of gastronomy”?
近年台灣餐飲業發展蓬勃，經濟部統計，2010年台灣的餐飲業者已達十萬二千多家，創下3,500億台幣的年營業額，較前一年成長7.12%。
In recent years there has been very rapid growth in the food and beverage industry in Taiwan. Statistics from the MOEA indicate that in 2010 there were 102,000 food and beverage enterprises in Taiwan, generating annual revenues of NT$350 billion, an increase of 7.12% over the preceding year.
眼看因緣俱足，台北市政府計畫於2012年向聯合國教科文組織提出申請，希望能成為全球第4個「美食之都」。
Seeing the obvious matchmaking possibilities, the Taipei City Government plans to apply to UNESCO in 2012 to become the world’s fourth “City of Gastronomy.”
聯合國教科文組織旗下有世界文化遺產、非物質文化遺產、創意城市網絡3大主題活動。其中「創意城市網絡」有文學、電影、音樂、設計等7種不同創意城市稱號，美食之都是其中之一。
UNESCO has three major programs under its jurisdiction, including World Heritage, Intangible World Heritage, and the Creative Cities Network. The latter is subdivided into seven major categories, including literature, film, music, design, and “gastronomy.”
不同稱號有不同的標準，申請美食之都必須符合8大指標，包括：在城市中心有高度發達的美食行業、活動積極的美食機構、大量傳統的餐廳和廚師、本國特有的傳統烹飪配料，依然留存當地烹飪訣竅、方式和方法，傳統食品市場和食品產業，以及舉辦過美食節、烹飪比賽和相關活動等等。
There are various indicators for each of the categories. An aspiring City of Gastronomy must meet eight criteria, including: well-developed gastronomy that is characteristic of the urban centre and/or region; a vibrant gastronomic community with numerous traditional restaurants and/or chefs; endogenous ingredients used in traditional cooking; local know-how, traditional culinary practices and methods of cooking that have survived industrial/technological advancement; traditional food markets and a traditional food industry; a tradition of hosting gastronomic festivals, awards, contests and other broadly targeted means of recognition, and more.
相較於亞洲第一個取得「美食之都」名號、以麻辣著稱的成都；以及另外兩個都市──哥倫比亞的亞波帕楊（烹飪手法、器皿為其特色）、瑞典的厄司特松德（綠色食品、咖啡館），台灣美食由於種類眾多且風味各異，不容易找到鮮明的特色。
So far only three cities have been given the title City of Gastronomy. The only one in Asia is Chengdu, in Sichuan Province, mainland China, which is renowned for its spicy food utilizing the hot red peppers of the region. The other two are Popayan, Columbia, with a centuries-old gastronomic tradition that has been passed along orally and is still widely practiced and nurtured, and Ostersand, Sweden, cited by UNESCO for (among other things) its “clean air and fresh water, long-lasting culinary tradition, and unique gastronomic culture based on locally produced sustainable food from a large number of organic producers.” In Taipei, because of the enormous diversity of cooking styles, it is not so easy to identify a single obvious and prominent defining characteristic.
而在上海、北京、福州、新加坡、香港、東京、大阪等都有意申請的強敵環伺下，台灣如何脫穎而出呢？
Given stiff competition from other Asian cities that intend to apply for the UNESCO appellation—such as Shanghai, Beijing, Fuzhou, Singapore, Hong Kong, Tokyo, and Osaka—how is Taipei going to stand out from the crowd?
經過美食專家及業者的初步分類，台灣美食大致可區分為：融合中華、台菜、台式海鮮、客家菜、原民味、台灣小吃及甜點飲品等7大類。但究竟要以何者為強打？哪些最具有國際賣相？
Under a preliminary taxonomy of Taiwan’s food phyla by culinary experts and people in the business, Taiwan cuisine can be roughly divided into seven major categories: composite Chinese cuisine, Taiwanese cuisine, Taiwanese-style seafood, Hakka cuisine, Aboriginal cuisine, Taiwanese street-stall and night-market foods, and desserts or sweets. Which ones should be considered the “meat of the order”? Which are likely to have the greatest international appeal?
台灣情‧台灣味
The taste of Taiwan
近年台灣的小吃、夜市聞名遐邇，加上《一頁台北》、《雞排英雄》等以夜市為背景的電影推波助瀾，夜市已成為觀光客來台必訪的「景點」。但小吃雖具有在地性和親切性，推上國際卻又精緻度不足。
Taiwan’s people have always enjoyed a thriving culture of street-stall and night-market foods, whose repute has seemed to reach new highs in the last few years with the help of films like Au Revoir Taipei and Night Market Hero. Indeed, night markets are “can’t-miss” attractions on the itineraries of foreigners visiting our island. But while street-stall and night-market offerings—known collectively as “little eats” (xiaochi) in Chinese—are authentic, integral parts of daily life for ordinary Taiwanese, there is the suspicion that they may be too “lacking in refinement” to be proper candidates to push into the international limelight.
經濟部商業司曾在2007年進行過一次「外國人台灣美食排行榜」票選活動。由觀光局、外貿協會和專家學者推薦27道小吃、34道桌菜，第一輪由台灣民眾透過網路票選出10種小吃、15道桌菜，再邀請來台就學和從商的外籍人士試吃票選。結果最後勝選的小吃前3名為蚵仔煎、珍珠奶茶與鹽酥雞；桌菜前3名則為菜脯蛋、宮保雞丁與蔥爆牛肉。國人最愛的五更腸旺、佛跳牆，或因材料中有豬血及豬內臟，不得外籍人士青睞。
In 2007, the Department of Commerce conducted its first-ever survey to see which local foods foreigners like most. First the Tourism Bureau, the International Trade Institute, and experts nominated 27 types of “little eats” and 34 more formal “table dishes”; then these were whittled down to 10 of the former and 15 of the latter via an online poll of Taiwanese. Foreigners in Taiwan (mainly students and businesspeople) were then invited to try the foods and vote for their faves. When all was said and done, the top three “little eats” were o-a-zen (蚵仔煎/oyster omelet), pearl milk tea, and yansu chicken (battered deep-fried chicken pieces with salt, pepper, and other spices), while the top “table dishes” were tsai-bo-neng (菜脯蛋/dried-radish-and-egg frittata), gongbao jiding (宮保雞丁/kungpao chicken), and wok-fried beef with scallions. Dishes with ingredients that are alien to most foreign kitchens, such as pig-intestine-and-pig-blood stew, despite rating highly with locals, failed to find much favor with visitors.
菜脯蛋拿下第一名，可能跌破許多台灣人的眼鏡，但採訪美食十餘年的聯合報記者陳靜宜卻認為，有「台灣披薩」之稱的菜脯蛋，不僅有台灣味，還可以用來評斷台菜餐廳的好壞。「這道有媽媽味的家常菜，常讓異鄉遊子吃到掉下思鄉淚，」菜脯蛋講求外酥內嫩，菜脯分布均勻且香脆，「一家台菜餐廳如果菜脯蛋做不好，後面的大菜也就無須太期待了。」
It must have been a jaw-dropper to many Taiwanese to hear that dried-radish-and-egg frittata finished at the head of the “table dish” hit parade. But Sarah Chen, a reporter for the United Daily News who has been on the gastronomy beat for over a decade now, says that it not only has great local authenticity, it is a touchstone for the quality of any restaurant specializing in Taiwanese cuisine. “This simple homespun dish, which is exactly the type of cooking you would get from Mom, often makes Taiwanese who are far from home go teary-eyed with nostalgia,” she opines. The trick to this frittata is that it has to be a little crunchy outside (golden brown, even slightly burnt, around the edges) and soft and chewy inside, with the radish spread evenly throughout the egg, and a crisp, clean aroma. “If a Taiwanese-style restaurant can’t even get this right, then you know there’s not much hope for the fancier dishes later on.”
主打美食不能一廂情願
A matter of taste
菜脯蛋，有台灣情，台灣味。只是，若說它是台灣美食的代表，卻又顯得掛一漏萬，滿地遺珠。
While dried-radish-and-egg frittata may have “real down-home Taiwanese cookin’” written all over it, it would be a very long stretch to call it “the representative dish” of Taiwan cuisine. It’s only a small part of a much richer tapestry.
美食國際化聯誼會會長陳飛龍表示，台灣美食比比皆是，甲魚湯、滷肉飯、櫻花蝦鮭魚炒飯、薑母鴨……，在他看來，有機會登上國際美食排行榜的菜至少有20道。
Alfred Chen, chairman of the Association for Promotion of the Internationalization of Taiwan Cuisine, points out that there is a huge variety of great food in Taiwan, and in his view there are at least 20 dishes that have a good shot at making any list of foods worthy of global attention.
如何挑選台灣主打的美食，確實讓人傷透腦筋。
Not surprisingly, then, choosing just a few flagship dishes to represent our island is proving to be quite a headache.
美食評論家梁幼祥表示，美食的定義分狹義和廣義兩種。舉凡自己喜歡，但別人不一定能接受的，屬於狹義的美食。像蚵仔煎，台灣人覺得美味，但有些老外受不了，認為它「黏呼呼的像鼻涕一樣！」
Gourmet and food critic Louis Liang advises us that the definition of fine cuisine can be broad or narrow. A narrow definition would include dishes that one favors oneself, though these might prove hard to swallow for others. For example, Taiwanese love oyster omelets, but some foreigners think they ”have the same gooey texture as mucus.”
廣義的美食，則是無論老中青，自己人、外國人都覺得好吃的食物，例如鼎泰豐，不僅台灣人愛吃，外國人也讚不絕口。
A broad definition, says Liang, would encompass foods that are praised by locals and foreigners, young and old alike. Just look at the Din Tai Fung restaurant—loved by locals, it is lavished with praise by foreigners as well.
「我們的當務之急是要發展出國際都認同的美食，不能一直在內部沾沾自喜，敝帚自珍，」梁幼祥提醒。
“The most urgent task is to develop fine cuisine that is internationally recognized as such—we can’t just keep our heads down in our own plates pleasing our own palates,” says Liang.
「不要一廂情願，自己認為好吃的，別人不一定能接受，」美食家胡天蘭指出，外國人到中國餐館永遠都要點甜酸肉，如糖醋排骨，因為這是他們喜歡的口味。
“You can’t just think about what you yourself want—just because you like something that doesn’t mean other people will find it acceptable,” avers gourmet Ann Hu. When foreigners go to Chinese restaurants, they always want to order sweet and sour meat, like sweet and sour pork, because that is the taste they like.
美食作家韓良露的看法亦同，她認為，大部分的美食可以本土化，但若想以食物與世界溝通，就得讓一些台灣美食會說國際語言，「台灣的食物，可以說台語，說普通話，但有的恐怕要會說英語才行。」
Lifestyle and food expert Lulu Han shares these views. She says that for everyday needs chefs can stick to making local favorites, but if you want to use cuisine to communicate with the world, then you have to have some Taiwanese dishes that can talk the international lingo. “All foods in Taiwan can speak Taiwanese and Mandarin Chinese, but you’ve got to have at least some that speak English.”
以小吃來說，媒體記者常被招待去吃觀光夜市，但因缺乏統整與相關資訊，常常亂吃一氣，有烤肉串，也有沙威馬；吃完滷味，再吃大阪燒，最終還是搞不清楚哪些才是台灣小吃。
Take “little eats” for instance. A reporter relates that he has often been taken by Taiwanese hosts to eat at night markets, but because there is no overall planning or information available, they end up eating virtually at random—first shishkebabs, then broiled-lamb sandwiches, then luwei, followed by okonomiyaki… until their heads are spinning and they have no idea which of the things they have consumed are authentically Taiwanese.
變身國際美食
Going global
一直以來，台灣美食的譯名始終沒有統一過，「意譯的菜名看起來沒有身世，沒有面目，」飲食旅遊作家葉怡蘭說，國際通用的方法是音譯，像日本的壽司，全世界都通用，「正名」後的台菜才會有台灣自己的味道。
Another point to consider in globalizing food is to make sure everybody is working from the same vocabulary. There has never been a unified system for translating the names of foods from Taiwan. “Translated menus look like they have no pedigree, no pride,” opines gourmet and writer Yeh Yi-lan. The internationally accepted approach is to render food names phonetically. For example, everybody in the world uses the term “sushi.” Only when the names of Taiwanese dishes are rectified will Taiwan be able to claim cuisine of its very own.
換句話說，台灣美食要國際化，就要先學會說國際語言。
In other words, if Taiwan cuisine is going to go global, it will have to first learn how to communicate in a global language.
韓良露為文分析，最近登上CNN旅遊網站全球美食排行榜的多是方便的速食，如泰國的馬沙文咖哩、日本的壽司等，且多為口味已經調整、美化、規格化的區域美食代表，受歡迎程度也與觀光客的旅遊體驗有關。
Lulu Han has written that most of the foods that have made it onto CNN’s travel website are convenient fast foods, such as Massaman curry from Thailand or sushi from Japan, and are mostly representative regional foods whose flavors have been moderated and standardized, and whose aesthetic presentation has been upgraded. The level of popularity is also connected to the typical tourist’s travel experience.
身兼聯合國美食之都──四川成都美食大使的梁幼祥舉成都為例，四川以麻辣著稱，但為了符合國際的口味，也必須調整，食物不能再像過去那麼油、鹹、辣、麻。
Louis Liang, one of whose hats is as special culinary ambassador of Chengdu, a UN City of Gastronomy, points to the example of that city. Sichuan, of which Chengdu is the provincial capital, is famous for its hot red peppers, but the spicy food has had to be toned down to conform to international tastes—it can’t be as oily, salty, or spicy as the locals are accustomed to.
口味或許可以為迎合大眾而稍作調整，但文化底蘊卻一定要保留。而哪些是台灣美食國際化中必須保留的文化內涵？
Flavors can be slightly smoothed out to find a wider audience, but the cultural underpinnings must be preserved. And what “cultural underpinnings” would have to be preserved when internationalizing Taiwanese cuisine?
葉怡蘭認為，台菜料理的基本概念是：菜要一整鍋大火熱炒、魚要一整條去蒸，才有味道。白飯是主食，菜用來配飯，因此中菜不適合一道一道上，應整桌擺滿豐盛的菜餚，「這才是台菜不能或忘、最迷人的本質！」
Yeh Yi-lan says that the most basic concept of Taiwanese cooking is that ingredients must all be wok-fried together over a high flame, or a fish must be steamed whole, for the flavor to be right. White rice is the centerpiece of every meal, and the dishes are just there to make the rice go down better. Therefore Chinese food shouldn’t be served in courses one after another, but the whole table should be packed with all the dishes side by side. “That’s the most unforgettable and appealing quality of dining in Taiwan.”
梁幼祥則認為，老食材加上新作法，既不失傳統，又能變身國際美食。他以豆腐與牛肉來比喻，雖然牛肉價格比豆腐貴，但在他眼中，豆腐才是真正有歷史、有文化、平易近人又健康的食材。只要賦予它新的生命，就會有不同的感受，「例如用宜蘭的番鴨汁去煨豆腐，不是更有味！」
Louis Liang adds that you can make internationalized cuisine that nevertheless stays within tradition by using old-fashioned ingredients but preparing them in new ways. He illustrates his point with beef and tofu. Though beef is more expensive than tofu, in his opinion the latter has actually got more history, culture, and street cred behind it, not to mention being healthier. Novel ways of cooking it up could completely change the status that people habitually assign to it.
呷好請你倒相報
Spread the word
推廣台灣美食，觀光客是最直接的行銷對象。
In promoting Taiwanese food, the most immediate marketing targets are tourists.
從來台觀光客多數只認同台灣小吃來看，我們似乎尚未善盡地主之責。青青餐廳總經理施建發（阿發師）以競爭激烈、團費太低的大陸團為例指出，旅行業為節省經費，幾乎都提供陽春的「旅遊餐」，無怪乎來台陸客多半留下：「台灣沒有什麼好吃的！」或「只有小吃還行！」的印象。
When you look at the fact that most tourists leave talking only about how much they enjoyed Taiwan’s “little eats,” you wonder if maybe we haven’t been as good hosts as we could have been. Evergreen Restaurant general manager Shih Chien-fa says this especially applies to tour groups from mainland China, a line of business in which competition is intense and operators thus don’t dare charge very much for their tours. To save on expenses, the operators almost all provide only simple and basic kinds of meals. No wonder, he says, that visitors to Taiwan usually leave with the impression that “there’s nothing good to eat” or “you can get by just as well on street-stall and night-market food.”
美食家胡天蘭指出，引進國際名品店，才能吸引更多觀光客來台，「台菜做得再好，如果沒有高級西餐廳，外國人還是不會來。」外國人吃兩天台菜就會開始想念家鄉菜了，我們要懂得尊重人家的風味，提供各種完善的服務。
Ann Hu advises that the only way to attract more tourists to Taiwan is to get internationally famous names to open restaurants here. “No matter how well the local Taiwanese food is made, if there are no elite-level Western restaurants, foreigners still aren’t going to come here.” After a couple days eating Taiwan food, foreigners will start getting homesick for their native cuisines, and we have to learn to respect people’s preferences, and give them a complete range of options.
除了建立觀光客的口碑之外，胡天蘭建議政府，多獎勵民間餐飲或食品業者邀請國際上具有公信力、影響力的廚藝家、美食家及媒體來台，藉由他們的媒介，將台灣美食面貌傳播出去。
Besides building up word of mouth through tourists, Ann Hu suggests that the government should create rewards or incentives for private restaurants or food manufacturers to invite internationally recognized chefs, gourmets, and food media to Taiwan, and then the true face of Taiwanese cuisine can be transmitted abroad though them.
展現台灣軟實力
Soft power
美食國際化，一方面由內部本土做起，另一方面則是要走出去行銷。
「出國比賽，大家才發現台灣料理的厲害。」中華美食交流協會理事長施建發認為，推廣台灣的美食應該打團體戰，而不是個人戰。近年台灣廚師開始走出去，頻頻組團去參加國際廚藝比賽。2004年，阿發師率團去新加坡比賽，一舉拿下總冠軍。
Although internationalizing local cuisine has to start at home with foreigners who come to visit, you also have to take it on the road and sell it overseas.
“The only way people are going to really find out how great the culinary arts are in Taiwan is for chefs to go abroad and compete,” says Shih Chien-fa, who is also the director of the Chinese Gourmet Association. He says the promotion of Taiwanese cuisine should be seen as a team sport, not an individual sport. In recent years Taiwan chefs have begun organizing teams to take part in international competitions. In 2004, Shih himself led a group to Singapore that won the overall first prize.
幾度受觀光局、僑委會邀請到國外大展廚藝的阿發師說，在駐紐約台北文化中心辦桌那次，席開50桌，共有十幾位各國大使受邀前來品嚐台菜，宣傳成效斐然。
Shih, who has several times been sponsored by the Tourism Bureau and the Overseas Compatriot Affairs Commission to demonstrate his skills abroad, once created a meal for 50 tables of guests at the Taipei Cultural Center in New York, including at least a dozen ambassadors from various countries. He says that the event was tremendously successful as a marketing effort.
除了官方遴聘美食餐飲專家赴海外宣揚台菜之美，民間業者跨足海外市場，更是擴張台菜版圖最有效的方式。
Besides the government inviting leading chefs abroad to promote Taiwanese food, an even more effective way to enlarge the geographic presence of Taiwan cuisine is for the private sector to cross over into foreign markets.
繼台灣美食品牌「鼎泰豐」登陸之後，欣葉也在6年前赴北京設點展業，賣起頂級台菜。
Following in the footsteps of Din Tai Fung, Taiwan’s leading brand name in haute cuisine, which long ago moved into mainland China, six years ago Shin Yeh set up shop in Beijing and began selling five-star Taiwanese cuisine.
欣葉執行董事李鴻鈞指出，北京欣葉的菜色有65%與台灣欣葉相同，口味也是道地的台灣味。為求口味道地，所用的醬料都要從台灣進口，因為只有台灣的沙茶醬、廣達香肉醬、醬油、紅蔥頭、哈哈豆瓣醬、豆腐乳，才能做出台灣特有味道。
Shin Yeh Restaurant Group executive director Lee Hung-chun says that 65% of the Taiwanese dishes served at the Beijing Shin Yeh are the same as in Taiwan, and the flavor is authentic and unadulterated. To make sure of that, all of their sauces and spices are imported from Taiwan.
只是，大陸人口味一般比台灣重，在台灣覺得剛好，北京民眾則覺得無味，為此，欣葉內部慎重其事地開會商討，最後決定，保留台菜的原味，再另外增添兩種沾醬，讓客人自行調配。
However, your typical Beijing diner favors food with heavier flavors than his counterpart in Taiwan, and what a Taiwanese finds to be perfect is apt to be considered “bland” by a Beijinger. Shin Yeh held extensive internal discussions about this very problem, and in the end they decided to retain the authentic Taiwanese flavors but to provide diners with two additional types of dipping sauces, so they could adjust the flavor to their own tastes.
比起泰國在海外已有一萬二千多家餐廳，韓國已有上萬家餐廳，要讓台灣美食國際化，一定要有主力產品的概念。韓良露強調，不要只是一味形容台菜多好吃，而是要用國際語言告訴觀光客，來台灣，這些美食絕對不能錯過！有了主打的美食，在觀光客的記憶味蕾中留下深刻印象，再申請美食之都，或登上國際美食排行榜，都不是難題了。
Reflecting on the case of Thailand, which currently boasts over 12,000 restaurants serving its national cuisine overseas, and Korea, with over 10,000, if you want to internationalize Taiwan cooking, then you have to adopt the idea that there should be some kind of product that will carry the major part of the load.
Lulu Han says that you can’t just going around saying over and over that Taiwanese food in general is delicious, you’ve got to let tourists discover, in an international language they will understand, that if you come to Taiwan, there are certain dishes you absolutely must try! If there are these core dishes, and they leave a deep impression in the minds and on the taste buds of visitors, there won’t be any difficulties applying for recognition as a “City of Gastronomy” or making it on to international fine dining lists!
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